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The forested hills south of Siena are dotted with lovely old villages, nature reserves and historic sites. One of the most beautiful is the ruined Abbey of San Galgano, the starlit setting of outdoor concerts and opera performances that in its prime was Tuscany’s most important religious centre. Villa Ferraia is even older than the abbey, first appearing in local records in 1204 as a small fortified castle. During the great wars between the Sienese and Florentine Republics both buildings were sacked; Galgano never recovered but Ferraia survived, adapting itself to peaceful times as a farmhouse. And now, after three years of painstaking restorations it has changed again, into a spectacular Tuscan retreat and spa.
Beds of lavender and rosemary surround the immaculate stone buildings, connected by courtyards designed for lounging or alfresco meals. Wood-beamed ceilings set the tone for the spacious bedrooms inside, all with private bathrooms. The bedrooms are loosely clustered into suites that share intimate sitting areas with fireplaces, while a dining room with a single long table offers an opportunity for the whole party to gather and discuss the day’s activities.
And the possibilities are dizzying. A spa area with a view of distant hills offers steam baths and Roman water treatments. A large organic vegetable garden maintained by the resident chef with a charming outdoor kitchen is the ideal setting for gardening and cooking lessons. The surrounding hills are teeming with wildlife and dotted with little towns, the perfect destination for guided hikes and horseback treks. There are trout ponds for keen fishermen, a large and lovely infinity-edged pool for swimmers and sunbathers, and even tree-houses for young children. Of particular note is Villa Ferraia’s private observatory, where an electronic telescope and a retractable roof allow guests to gaze at the stars in notably unpolluted skies.
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