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Li Reni is a stunning example of a traditional Pugliese ‘masseria’. Part fortress, part farmhouse, its centuries-old metre-thick limestone (tufo) walls served as protection against brigands, who were treated to baths of boiling oil poured from the towers. The walls continue to provide excellent insulation against summer heat and winter chills, and an inner courtyard, once essential as a risk-free source of light and fresh air, is now simply a charming architectural feature. The masseria’s two bedrooms, both with splendid vaulted ceilings, open into a walled garden where lemon, persimmon and fig trees surround a pretty swimming pool, and to the property’s substantial fruit orchards and vineyards. The charming owner occupies a separate wing of the house, and guests are welcome to join him in his studio for classes in the art of stained and fused glass making.
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